A Pilgrim Tale: day thirty


After yesterday’s rain, today dawns cold and spectacularly clear. We leave the cemetery behind, and pick up the trail through farmland. Lots of cows. Lots of cowpies.

The weather is perfect for walking, and we are growing so eager for Santiago that we walk 31.5 kilometers today, all the way to Melide.


We have been told that Melide is THE place to have Pulpo–Octopus–so we comply. It comes swimming in good olive oil. It is surprisingly delicate and delicious. And weird and tenticle-y. And one of the tenticles accidentally sticks to the plate. So… Mike and David suddenly have the brilliant idea to see how far off the table they can lift a plate with a piece of tenticled pulpo. Various techniques are employed, with varying levels of success. Plates rattle. Oil is splashed. A good time is had by all. 🙂

Our Albergue, O Cruceiro, is lovely. It is a neoclassical building with beautiful wooden stair rails and heart pine floors. When we arrive, our hospitalera directs us to the lift (!), and when we get to the second floor, she unlocks the bathroom, the kitchen, and room in which the four of us will sleep. We have the whole floor to ourselves! Timing is everything. The first floor is full. This we learn when we walk down to do laundry. Sometime after we go to bed, four women take a second room, but we are unaware of them til morning.

We load the fridge with yogurt and fruit for breakfast and sleep a happy, snore-free sleep.


Pilgrims are poets who create by taking journeys…pilgrims are persons in motion–passing through territories not their own–seeking something we might call completion, or perhaps the word clarity will do as well, a goal to which only the spirit’s compass points the way.

~Richard R. Niebuhr

*My phone refused to take photos on this day, whining about there being “no room”. Imagine that. So I owe a debt to Mike for the top two photos, and David for the one at bottom. Thanks, fellas!