A Pilgrim Tale: day twenty-nine


This morning we walk in light rain through dairy farms and down woodland paths.


We stop for lunch in Portomarin. The remains of the old town lie along the river creating an eerie and tragic feeling of destruction. The whole of it was flooded when they built the Balesar reservoir, with the exception of the Igrexa de San Juan (Church of St. John) which was moved, brick by numbered brick, to higher ground.


By the time we arrived at Casa Garcia in Gonzar it has grown cold, which is unfortunate because tonight’s quarters are unheated. With outdoor bathrooms. The adorable hospitalera leads us out of the bar/reception area and past the cemetery. “This is not your room,” she says. ๐Ÿ™‚ Thank goodness. But our room does share a common wall with the dead. Jose reports to us that the neighbors are very quiet. ๐Ÿ™‚


The room is beautiful with stone walls and floor, large timbered rafters supporting a wooden ceiling. Also, we are sleeping with our friends again which is always fun. And Mike and I have side by side bunks again which means we can snuggle when it gets cold. ๐Ÿ˜‰ I will be consoled somewhat for my middle of the night trip to the loo by a wide sky FULL of stars.

We hear rumors that a fire is roaring back at the bar and we pretty much leap from our sleeping bag cocoons to check it out. We plant ourselves in a circle, knees nearly touching the stove. It takes a while, but we finally thaw. The evening ends with singing, as it so often has.


Of all the communities available, the society of true seekers is the only one I want to devote myself to.

~Albert Einstein

*Thank you, Otto, for kindly sharing the video with me!!